So the time has finally come for my first trip to Israel, after many rescheduling I finally managed to set foot in the promised land.
It is a land that managed to surprise me. For example, many people told me that Tel Aviv is very European, and while I can see what they mean, I found it very Asian in the jumble of wires in the street, in the messy and lively open air markets, and I also found it looked like Brazil on the beachfront. I like Tel Aviv, I like the many bars that are open til late, I like the people sitting and chatting at midnight, I like the fact that you can find food at any time of day and night, and that you can walk by the beach towards the old port of Jaffa.
The other surprise came from Jerusalem. I am not a very religious person, but many people told me that they felt the shekhinah, the presence of God, in the city. I find the old city very fascinating, with all its history, with the narrow streets, the processions bearing the cross and singing hymns, the muezzins’ calls to prayer, the Jews in traditional coats, the Ethiopian community with their traditional dresses and white veils, the black robes and strange hats of the Armenian monks. But I do not feel the presence of God, I feel the atmosphere of a city whose atmosphere is and was shaped by the the many people who believe God is or was present.
Everything is more extreme in Jerusalem; the presence of some of the holiest places of the three main monotheistic religions has caused and still causes clashes, it looks like people tend to be more traditional here, rather than in other parts of the world. Many times I came across scenes that could be happening in any point in the time in the past 500 years and I guess that is part of the charm of the city.
It definitely is worth a visit. It slowly grows on you and now I would like to go back.
North of Tel Aviv you can visit Caesarea, easy to reach and impressive Roman ruins of the old port. The old theatre is still in use and it must be nice to see a show there. You can have a picnic or dip in the sea near the ancient aqueduct.
And further north you can visit Akko, a little jewel of a city that dates back to the Canaanite period and used to be the main port for pilgrims going to the Holy Land in the Middle Ages. The Knights Hospitaller (later Knights of Malta) had their headquarter in the city at the time and their grand buildings can still be seen partly buried under under today’s city. The city was then conquered by the Mamelukes and the Ottomans, until it was conquered by the newly found State of Israel in 1948.
The old city is part of UNESCO Heritage and is really amazing. I visited it in just one day, so I could not see everything, but it was really worth it. I went to Al-Jazzar mosque and was pleasantly surprised when they let me in even if my calves were showing, I was also surprised by the fact that the prayer at noon was called by both a man and a woman.
I also had one of the best meals ever in Akko, sublime fish and seafood at Uri Buri restaurant. The place itself is nice and unpretentious, the waiters very very kind, they try to accommodate your requests so that you can have the best experience, and the food is amazing.
It has been quite a ride, and I am sure that this was not a Goodbye, but a See you again soon